Lilico's Taverna: The Tinned Fish Trend Hits Kansas City's Crossroads
- Adriana
- May 20
- 5 min read
If you’ve spent any time scrolling through foodie TikTok or wandering the winding streets of Lisbon or the East Village in NYC lately, you’ve probably seen it: the "tinned fish" craze. It’s colorful, it’s aesthetic, and it’s surprisingly delicious. For a long time, these ultra-cool, conservas-focused bars were something we only saw in "big cities." You’d book a trip to Portugal or a flight to Manhattan just to experience a curated "tinned fish date night."
Well, Kansas City, the wait is officially over. The "big city" trend has landed right in our backyard.
Welcome to Lilico’s Taverna. Located at 1615 Oak St in the heart of the Crossroads Arts District, this place is a total game-changer for the KC dining scene. It’s casual, it’s fantastic, and it brings a slice of the Iberian Peninsula to the Midwest in a way that feels both authentic and totally fresh.
What Exactly is the "Tinned Fish" Trend?
Before we dive into the menu, let’s talk about why everyone is suddenly obsessed with fish in a can. In Spain and Portugal, these are called conservas. Forget the bland, mushy tuna you used to get in your school lunches. These are high-end, premium products.
The fish: whether it’s sardines, mackerel, octopus, or mussels: is often packed fresh within hours of being caught. They are preserved in high-quality olive oil, spiced brines, or savory tomato sauces. In places like Lisbon, tinned fish bars (like the famous Sol e Pesca) have been staples for years, turning a simple pantry item into a gourmet dining experience.
Lilico’s Taverna is the first spot in Kansas City to truly lean into this culture, and honestly? It’s about time.
The Star of the Show: Tins, Chips, and Crème Fraîche
They have everything from spicy sardines to marinated mussels and even premium octopus.
The experience is simple but brilliant. You choose your tin: they have brands like Fishwife, La Curiosa, and IASA: and it’s served to you with a side of crispy potato chips and a dollop of crème fraîche (or cream cheese, depending on your preference).
There’s something so satisfying about the crunch of a salty chip paired with the rich, buttery texture of a high-quality sardine and a cooling touch of crème fraîche. It’s the ultimate "snackable" dinner. If you’re a beginner, go for the IASA Branzino or the Sardines in Spicy Olive Oil. If you’re feeling adventurous, the Mariscandora Octopus is an absolute must-try. Prices range from about $13 to $28 per tin, making it easy to share a few with a group.
Beyond the Tins: Pinchos and Small Bites
While the fish might be the headliner, the supporting cast at Lilico’s is just as strong. They offer a variety of Pinchos: Spanish-style small bites served on bread.
Since they use bread from our local favorites at Ibis Bakery, you know the base is going to be perfection. You can’t go wrong with the Jamón Ibérico and Manchego pincho, or the tomato and garlic purée with fresh mozzarella. These bites are perfect for when you want a little something extra to round out your meal without feeling overly stuffed.
Let’s Talk Drinks: Sangria and the Madrid Mule
You can't have a taverna without a killer bar program, and Lilico’s delivers. Their house-made red Sangria is dangerous: it’s refreshing, not too sweet, and exactly what you want to be sipping on a warm KC evening.
If you’re looking for a cocktail, try the Madrid Mule. Made with vanilla vodka, simple syrup, and fresh lime, it’s a sweet and zesty twist on the classic. For those who want to stay true to the Spanish roots, order a Tinto de Verano (red wine mixed with lemon-lime soda). It’s the ultimate "crushable" drink for a casual hangout.
And the best part? Most of their cocktails are under $10, which is a rare find in the Crossroads these days. If you catch their happy hour (usually from opening until 6:00 p.m.), you can snag some of these drinks for just $4 or $5!
The Vibe: Dalí, Sobremesa, and Shawn McClenny
Lilico’s Taverna isn't just about the food; it’s about the feeling. The space is inspired by the concept of Sobremesa: the Spanish tradition of lingering at the table long after the meal is over to talk, drink, and enjoy the company you’re with.
The decor is a vibe in itself. Think exposed brick, a beautiful tiled bar, and subtle nods to Salvador Dalí (look for the melting clocks!). It feels cozy and lived-in, like a neighborhood secret you’ve just been let in on.
The heart behind the project is owner Shawn McClenny, a staple in the KC hospitality scene. Lilico’s is a deeply personal project for him and his wife, Carolina. The bar is named after her late father, Orlando “Lilico” Cortes, and the menu reflects their shared Spanish and Cuban influences. Knowing the story behind the name makes every sip of that sangria taste just a little bit better.
Tips for Your Visit
Ready to head to the Crossroads? Here are a few things to keep in mind:
No Reservations: Lilico’s is an informal, no-reservation kind of place. If there’s an open table, it’s yours. If not, grab a drink at the bar and wait for a spot to open up. It’s part of the casual, European charm.
Date Night vs. Group Hang: It’s perfect for both. A "tinned fish date night" is super trendy and fun, but bringing a group of four means you can order a wider variety of tins to sample.
Happy Hour is Key: If you want the full experience on a budget, get there early. The happy hour deals on drinks and snacks are some of the best in the city.
Embrace the Sobremesa: Don’t rush! This isn't a "turn and burn" restaurant. Plan to stay a while, order another round of sangria, and actually talk to your friends.
Why KC Needs More Spots Like This
For a long time, the Midwest has been labeled as "meat and potatoes" country. But the success of places like Lilico’s Taverna shows that Kansas City is ready for more. We want the unique, the artisanal, and the slightly weird. We want the big city trends, but we want them with that signature KC friendliness and hospitality.
Lilico’s is more than just a restaurant; it’s a sign that our food scene is continuing to evolve into something world-class.
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Lilico’s Taverna is officially on my "must-visit" list for 2026. Whether you're a tinned fish devotee or a complete skeptic, give it a try. I promise you'll leave a fan. See you in the Crossroads!
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